Mutton curry from Telangana, a Manipuri fish stew and a reimagined Punjabi classic – The Indian Express

June 17, 2022

Indian cuisine is not just about Punjabi or Tamil food, or, for that matter, Malayali food. There are many dishes across the country that are waiting to be explored. For example, how different is the cuisine of Telangana, the country’s newest state, from Andhra Pradesh’s? Or, what’s the one Manipuri fish stew that you’ve got to have? Plus, to ensure that there’s also some familiar food on the table, we’ve got a foodie to look at Butter Chicken in a different way.
Hyderabad is not just about its biryanis. Even before Telangana came into its own in 2014, there was a lot left to be explored of the state’s and its capitals’ cuisines. Chef Chalapathi Rao, of Hyderabad-based restaurant Simply South, has tried and tested recipes from the region(and across all of south India) in his kitchen. Rao, who has over two decades of experience, says that one of the basic differences in the cuisines of Andhra and Telangana is how oil is used to make pickles.
“In Andhra, cold oil is used for making pickles, but in Telangana, the oil is boiled.” Telangana’s topography lends itself to more millet and roti-based dishes, with jowar and bajra preferred over wheat or any other flour. “This cuisine is supposed to make you sweat and regulates the BMR (basal metabolic rate).” Red chillies, tamarind (imli), asafoetida (hing) and puntikoora (gongura or sorrel leaves), which add heat and sourness to the cuisine, are the main ingredients used in Telangana’s cuisine.
Puntikura mamasam, or Puntikura mutton, is a favourite dish from the region, and is a perfect accompaniment to bajra or jowar rotis.
Learn how to make Puntikura Mamasam
Mutton – 500g
Oil – 6 tbsp
Ginger-garlic paste – 2 tbsp
Green chillies – 8
Medium-sized onions – 2 chopped and 1 sliced
Red chilli powder – 2 tsp
Turmeric powder – 1 tsp
Coriander powder – 1 tsp
Cumin powder – 1 tsp
Salt – to taste
Puntikura leaves – 5 bunches
* Clean and wash the mutton.
* To the mutton add ginger garlic paste, turmeric powder, chilli powder, cumin powder, coriander powder and salt.
* Add a little oil and marinate the mutton and keep aside.
* Wash the puntikura leaves and keep separately.
* Heat a little oil in a thick-bottomed pan.
* Add the chopped onions and sauté until golden brown.
* Now, add the marinated mutton and keep cooking the mutton on a slow flame, adding little quantities of water as and when required till done.
* Heat a little oil in a seprate thick-bottomed pan.
* Add the sliced onions, slit green chillies and washed puntikura leaves, and cook till the leaves are cooked properly.
* Add a little water if required. Once the leaves are cooked, the oil will start oozing out of the leaves mixture. Make a paste of this mixture.
* Now, add the leaves mixture paste to the mutton and cook for some more time.
* Add a little water, if required; adjust seasoning and serve hot.

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